SGdiaries

You weave your way through uniform plastic tables and clattering cutlery, the chatter of enthusiastic aunties melds with the sizzling of hot woks at work.

The uncle at the stall, barely looking up exclaims “Next!”. You point to the menu, he nods, and within a few minutes, a steaming bowl of brothy noodles lands in your hand – all for $3.50. Fast paced, delicious and a short walk from your block. 

What is Hawker culture?

A thriving culture that is not only satiating but also financially liberating, Singapore’s Hawker centers have been operating at full capacity since the 1960s – a testament of the possibility for delicious and yet accessible southeast asian delicacies on the culinary market.

From navigating through the many Michelin rated chicken rice stalls to delving into the spiced Indian realm of masala dosa, the opportunities for exploring remain boundless. But lately, there’s been a shift.

Why are Hawker prices increasing?

In 2023, food prices in hawker centers rose by 6.1%, the steepest increase yet. Your once budget-friendly $4 kway teow may now cost closer to $6. This isn’t due to greed from your local auntie.

Behind the scenes, everything is more expensive—ingredients, electricity, and gas. Plus, the government announced that Service and Conservancy Charges (S&CC) will increase in 2024 for 27 hawker centers. Stall owners will pay $15 more per month starting in January, and another $20 in July.

How are Singaporeans reacting to this?

Despite these struggles, the government is listening. Initiatives like “Hawkers Go Digital” promote digital payments to help hawker centers reduce losses and create a sustainable model.

This boosts visibility on delivery platforms, helping smaller stalls profit. In 2024, new bidding policies for stalls will help limit high bids compared to current market rent. These methods aim to ease the financial strain on your favorite auntie and uncle.

How will Hawker culture progress?

Still, a question lingers: will hawker centers ever be the same? Some worry younger Singaporeans don’t want to take over the stalls. The hours are long, the work is hard, and profits are shrinking. If prices keep rising and stalls keep closing, will the next generation experience $3 fishball noodles eaten elbow-to-elbow with strangers?

The hawker center experience may evolve—more digital, more polished, and more expensive. But we hope the heart remains the same.

Next time you’re eating at your neighbourhood hawker centre, look around. That food didn’t just appear out of nowhere, it’s someone’s sweat, someone’s legacy.

And yeah, even if the chicken rice goes up by a dollar, maybe it’s still worth it, because sometimes, you’re not just paying for food. You’re paying to keep a piece of home alive.

11/06/2025

Lac Nghi Nguyen